The tiny Cessna which flies us into Canaima is a bumpy ride through the clouds. The view is spectacular, stretching first across plains, then forest palms, savannah, tepuis and then the stunning lagoon of Canaima with its many waterfalls.
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A short canoe ride takes us to Isla Anatoly, named after a Russian who lived there alone for many years and is now buried there. A short hike up through scrubland and scramble back down through tree roots takes us to a little cove at the foot of El Sapo. The water’s cold, but you get used to it. It’s teaming with little silver fish darting around your feet.
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It’s hard to convey in words now what an amazing experience it was to walk behind Salto Hecha. The force, the intensity of the torrents of water cascading over the top and the spray dashing against the rocks as I walked through the recessed hollows. It’s incredible to be so close to such an elemental force and feel such a rush. Truely an unforgettable memory.
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The landscape through which we travel as we bump over rapids on the way to Salto Angel is simply awe-inspiring. As we twist and turn through the Canyon del Diablo, the tepuis loom ominously, starkly overhead. As they grow in height, they take on stranger, more surreal forms, like ramparts or spines. There’s definitly an otherwordly quality to the place.
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It’s a little disconcerting to finally arrive at a place you’ve been imagining for years. The hour long trek through thick forest to reach the viewpoint is a real slog, and when we reach the viewpoint at the foot, the falls are obscured by mist. Is it all going to be an anticlimax? Then, after 15 or 20 mins, the mist starts to clear and I finally see what I’d be imagining for years. Nearly 1000m high, the highest falls in the world. I’m surprised that there’s three thin clear streams to the falls, not just one. It’s absolutely been worth it, but the real revelation has been the scenery of the whole area. If you ever get the chance, just go. Really, just go.