A six-year initiative to protect a vital part of the most biodiverse region on Earth has come to an end in Ecuador. President Rafael Correa announced yesterday that the Yasuni-ITT project, which asked governments and organisations around the world to support Ecuador financially in return for keeping oil in the ground, is no longer viable….
Author: Claire
The magic of the rainforest – how Shiripuno saved my Ecuador trip
I posted before my trip to Ecuador how unsure I was about returning to the rainforest. In a nutshell, I didn’t think anything could come close to my Mamiraua experiences from my first visit to South America. My first week in Ecuador somehow didn’t live up to my expectations. Something was missing. Shiripuno taught me…
Old and new in Panama City
Usually I’m not a fan of tours. I like heading off in my own direction and having the freedom to wander down a side street because something catches my eye. But Rina provided a fascinating local view of her city that made the most of only a day on our way home from Ecuador. An…
Touching the sky in Quito
It’s not often a marketing slogan rings true, but ‘toca el cielo’ or ‘touch the sky’ seems the perfect fit for Quito, a city ringed by volcanoes, some of them still active. After spending the first week wondering why I just wasn’t clicking with Ecuador, Quito went a long way to turning it around. The…
Tales of the unexpected in rural Ecuador
“Miguel? Miguel Andrango?” The taxi driver’s voice rang out again. More insistent this time. I shrugged. Maybe Ecuador’s most famous weaver wasn’t in. It was Sunday, after all. Finally, after five minutes the side door creaked open. This little, nondescript village high in the hills above Otavalo was home to a man renowned for his…
A little musical interlude
I like to listen to a little of the music of places I travel to before I go. This Seu Jorge track was one of my favourites during my trip back in 2009, but I sadly left my CD walkman (retro) on a long-distance bus with this CD in it. It popped into my head…
Travel resources – plan a great South American trip
*Updated November 2025* As another email drops into my inbox offering a two-week trip to South America for an eye-watering £7,500, it’s little wonder so many people think it’s out of their price range. It’s true that some of these companies offer a reliable, tailored approach which takes the stress out of planning for first-time…
A quirky place to stay in Brighton
I can count on one hand the number of really memorable places I’ve stayed in. The pousada in Itacare, the place with great caipirinhas in Buenos Aires, a faded old colonial place in Asuncion. In a sea of cheap B and Bs and dull chain hotels, it’s a brave choice to fill your hotel walls…
Just as good second time around? Heading back to the rainforest in Ecuador
Photo credit: sara y tzunky (Flickr creative commons) This summer I’ll be visiting a new country, Ecuador. Definitely looking forward to seeing some more Andean scenery, volcanoes and visiting Quito. But one element of our plans had me hesitating for weeks – visiting a remote jungle lodge in the Oriente. It’s not from any fear…
Brighton, Traverse and a dip into the archives
This is something I originally wrote back in 2004. I’m reposting it here so it doesn’t disappear into the ether next time the servers crash. It’s maybe not the style I’d write in today (in fact the temptation to edit some of the more flowery parts is very strong), but the sentiments remain the same,…