(followed by a few longer snippets about my trip).

Eating: “Sorena”– a wonderful Azerbajani restaurant. Salmon slowly grilled over charcoal, lavash and fresh walnut and coriander dip- so so good.
Drinking: tea at “Skonis ir Kvapas”. 40 types of tea, freshly ground coffee (I didn’t count but about 20 kinds), 3 cosy rooms with vaulted ceilings.
“Svyturys”– in bars around the city. Very good, cheap cranberry vodka. Tip: don’t ask for your vodka with lemonade. You get a very strange look!